PRESERVING CELERY IN OIL



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The Italians still preserve in olive oil, so why can't we Americans?  Oil in itself does not ward off bacteria, a cause for concern with many folks, but it does create an effective barrier against direct contact with air. Good olive oil has a balance of fatty acids that resist oxidation, and as any good cook knows, air is not our friend when it comes to canning or preserves.

When preserving vegetables in oil, they are often cured for a short period in either brine or vinegar, or sometimes in a mixture of both. The idea is to preserve the crunch. The ‘pickled’ vegetables are then placed into clean, sterile jars, covered with oil and shelved for later use.

I have found it best to start with a layer of oil in each canning jar before adding your vegetables, as this helps prevent the formation of air bubbles. Also, make sure your vegetables stay completely covered in oil after you start using the preserve. I sometimes keep mine in the refrigerator, taking them out in the morning to rest on the counter and return to room temperature before using them. This helps with the 'crunch' factor.

Though preserving vegetables in olive oil tends to be expensive, as good quality olive oil is not inexpensive, it is a lovely way to put by many vegetables that are wonderful in summer salads, on a pizza, or as side dish.

I particularly like eggplant and peppers preserved in oil. All three items: celery, eggplant and peppers, contribute nicely to salads and antipastos, and the left over oil can be used in all kinds of interesting ways.

PRESERVING CELERY IN OIL

INGREDIENTS

Celery

1/4 Cup Kosher Salt

1/8 Cup Raw Sugar

1/3 Cup White Wine Vinegar

1/4 Cup roughly chopped Mint

1/2 Cup Scallion or Ramps with greens, julienned

Olive Oil to Cover


 

DIRECTIONS

Trim celery sticks and finely slice on the diagonal reserving the leaves and trimmings for soup stocks or seasonings. Follow suit with your onion of choice.

Combine celery, onions and salt, mix well and leave to stand for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine vinegar and sugar in a small heavy-based saucepan and stir over heat until sugar dissolves.

Simmer, uncovered and without stirring, until reduced by one-third and slightly syrupy – you should have about ¼ cup.

Using your hands, gently squeeze away any excess liquid from celery and onions, add to vinegar and let sit for a minute or two.

Pack into wide mouth canning jars, layering with mint.

Split cooled vinegar syrup between jars, top with olive oil. Make sure all vegetables are covered with oil and there are no air bubbles between layers.

Cap tightly and keep in dark, cool pantry or refrigerator until needed.




Here are several recipes from old cookbooks that use the versatile celery in some interesting and vaguely familiar ways.


 CELERIS AU LARD

From The Belgium Cookbook; Editor: Mrs. Brian Luck, Published 1815


INSTRUCTIONS

Take one pound of celery, cut off the green tops, cut the stems into pieces two-thirds of an inch long; put into boiling salted water, and cook till tender. Take one-half pound potatoes, peel and slice, and add to the celery, so that both will be cooked at the same moment. Strain and place on a flat fire-proof dish. Prepare some fat slices of bacon, toast them till crisp in the oven; pour the melted bacon-fat over the celery and potato, adding a dash of vinegar, and place the rashers on top. Serve hot.



STUFFED CELERY

The Suffrage Cook Book; Compiled by Mrs. L. O. Kleber, Pittsburgh. The Equal Franchise Federation of Western Pennsylvania, Published 1915


INSTRUCTIONS

A most delicious relish is made with Roquefort cheese, the size of a walnut, rubbed in with equal quantity of butter, moistened with sherry (lemon juice will serve if sherry be not available), and seasoned with salt, pepper, celery salt, and paprika; then squeezed into the troughs of a dozen slender, succulent sticks of celery.

This is a very appropriate prelude to a dinner of roast duck.

 

ODE TO MAINE SHRIMP

Maine Shrimp Season is always cause for celebration here in New England. Though short and sweet like the delicate pink crustaceans: just 136 days, the fishery is sustainable with catches closely monitored and regulated.

Maine shrimp are not what most people expect, they are smaller, sweeter, delicate in comparison to their cousins from the Gulf of Mexico with their white-gray color and meatier chunkiness. Envision Maine’s petite wild blueberries compared to the larger cultivated berries, it is the same difference.

A shiny pink-to-red color, Maine shrimp are usually sold with the head and tail intact. Unlike most shrimp, which have been frozen at some point, Maine shrimp are sold and shipped fresh  from the cold Atlantic depths off the coasts of Maine and Massachusetts, never frozen.

Although the weather has gone topsy-turvy causing a ruckus in the food chain, Maine shrimp season was still wonderful. Running from December to April, markets receive shipments of this shrimp erratically, each year is unique, so call your fish monger ahead of time to make sure these little sweeties are available. Though the season is virtually past (unless you happen to know a Maine shrimper), these recipes can be made with other varities of shrimp.

SHRIMP BISQUE

Makes 4 servings

The first step is to beheaded your shrimp if the fishmonger has not done it for you. Reserve the heads and shells, you'll be using them to make the stock.

To remove the shell, take a shrimp in one hand, pinch its tail with your fingers, give a tug with your other hand and the little, pink shrimp will usually slip out whole. Rinse with cool water. Remember to always keep shellfish cool. It can take a while to peel your shrimp, so keep a bowl of ice in your sink they can chill in.

Making stock from scratch is a bit time-consuming, but quite simple and well worth the effort. It builds a flavor-packed foundation for this savory soup, is a delicious base for a risotto or a creamy shrimp sauce, or flavoring for any variety of other soups and sauces. With this bisque recipe keep in mind the shrimp is the star, a little sherry goes a long way.


INGREDIENTS

2 pounds Maine shrimp, shells and heads on

1 cup dry Sherry

2 cups Water

3 tablespoons Butter, divided

Olive Oil

1/2 cup chopped celery

1/2 cup chopped shallots or white onion

1/2 medium-sized Fennel bulb (or whole small), roughly sliced

1/2 cup chopped Carrot

2 tablespoons White Flour

3 tablespoons Tomato Paste

5 to 6 crumbled Saffron Threads

Kosher salt, to taste

White Pepper, to taste

Old Bay Seasoning, to taste

Dry mustard, to taste

2 cups Light Cream

1 Bay Leaf


 FOR STOCK

Clean the shrimp, removing heads and shells. Set aside.

Combine the sherry and water and bring to a boil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot. Add the shells and heads and simmer for 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from burner, while working the next step.

Melt 1 tablespoon of butter with a splash of olive oil over medium heat. Add celery, shallots, fennel, carrots and bay leaf, stir until soft. Turn shells, heads and liquid mixture into pot, cover and simmer for 25 minutes. Strain though a colander, pressing on the solids to remove all liquid. Set aside.

FOR BISQUE

In a medium sauce pan, melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter and whisk in flour to form a roux. Cook for 4 or 5 minutes on low. Make sure all flour is incorporated being careful not to burn.

Slowly whisk in shrimp stock and simmer entire mixture until smooth. Add tomato paste, saffron, salt, pepper, Old Bay Seasoning and dry mustard to taste.

Add shrimp, cream, and more sherry if desired. Gently stir until shrimp are heated through. Do not bring to a boil. Serve immediately.

MAINE SHRIMP SALAD

4 servings (Adapted from a recipe published in The Washington Post, 2009)

I originally made this Maine shrimp recipe for friends, marinating them briefly in citrus juice as called for: it was a disaster! I ended up marinading the shrimp then cooking the batch lightly (until the shrimp curl) and  leaving it all to rest in the refrigerator overnight to marry the flavors.

INGREDIENTS

1/2 pound peeled and beheaded Maine Shrimp

1/4 cup extra-virgin Olive Oil

1 Tablespoon freshly squeezed Lemon

1 Tablespoons finely chopped Fresh Cilantro ( or about 1 teaspoons dried Cilantro)

4 slices crisped Bacon

Freshly ground Black Pepper

1 teaspoon Spanish Paprika

dash of Dill

dash of Ground Ginger

dash of Salt

3 cups (more or less) Boston Bibb and Baby Spinach

1 small Fennel Bulb

several bulbs Pickled Garlic, diced small


DIRECTIONS

Combine the shrimp, 2 Tablespoons of olive oil, the lemon juice, cilantro, diced Pickled Garlic, dill, ginger and salt in a medium bowl. Sprinkle lightly with freshly ground black pepper, paprika, dash of salt. Toss well.

Place mixture in pan over medium heat for several minutes until shrimp curl. This step should only take a few minutes. Remove from heat. Let cool and place in refrigerator until ready to make salad.

Clean, rinse and dry the lettuce. Arrange the leaves (Boston Lettuce topped with Baby Spinach) on the salad plates.

Use a very sharp knife to shave the fennel bulb, and then distribute the shavings over the plated lettuce. Crumble crisped Bacon and arrange over lettuce. Dribble the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil over the salad bed. Top each plate with shrimp and marinade. Garnish with the leafy green fronds of fennel tops. Serve immediately.

Bon c'est temps!

ALL GOOD THINGS TAKE TIME

In 1797, James Keiller and his mother Janet ran a small sweet and preserves shop in the Seagate section of Dundee, Scotland, eventually opening a factory to produce Dundee Marmalade: thick chunks of Seville orange rind suspended in jelly; a business that prospered and upon which other marmalades have since been judged.

The general definition for marmalade is a sweet jelly in which slices of fruit and rind are suspended. The key is the rind: a sliver of tartness suspended in citrus scented jelly, the taste a tangy dance of bitter sweetness. Traditionally marmalades have a Seville orange base, the taste so well loved it spawned lime, lemon, grapefruit, and kumquat versions. The possibities are endless. 

Like most foods, marmalades continue to evolve. Currently chefs are creating gourmet recipes which include savory vegetables. I like a blend of the citrus with a vegetable, particularly Orange-Carrot Marmalade.

Marmalade can take a bit of time to put together, but personally I believe in that old adage, all good things take time, don't you?

HOMEMADE PIZZA AND SAUCE

Today's pizza has a long and interesting history. In the 3rd century B.C., Romans ate a "flat round of dough dressed with olive oil, herbs, and honey, baked on stones." In 16th century Europe the tomato was believed to be poisonous, as most fruits of the nightshade family are, but by the late 18th century, cooks around Naples were adding it to their yeast-based flatbread: the dish now known as pizza was born.

In ancient Naples, pizza was considered 'poor man's food,' but then, as now, people started talking, and visitors ventured into the city's poorer areas to try the local specialty. Pizza's popularity was undeniable even then.

Popular pizza lore holds that Via Port'Alba 18 in Naples was the first 'official' pizzeria. Still in business today, according to Wikipedia, the location was established in 1738 as a stand for street vendors, who would make pizza in wood-fired ovens, then peddle it on the street, keeping the pies warm in small copper stoves they balanced on their heads.

Eventually, the restaurant Antica Pizzeria Port'Alba opened, replacing the peddlers with a more formal location. Legend has it that the eatery's ovens have been lined with lava rocks from nearby Mount Vesuvius since its inception. 




photo courtesy of Wikipedia


In America, the first pizzeria is rumored to have been established in a grocery store opened by Gennaro Lombardi, an Italian immigrant, in Manhattan's Little Italy in 1897.  An employee of his, Antonio Totonno Pero, began making pizza for the store to sell that same year.  In 1924, Totonno left Lombardi's to open his own pizzeria on Coney Island called, funnily enough, Totonno's (recently reopened, click here). While the original Lombardi's closed its doors in 1984, it was reopened in 1994 just down the street and is run by Lombardi's grandson.

It doesn't take long to make your own sauce and dough. The recipes that follow make enough sauce for four or more medium pizzas (depends on how much sauce you like on your pie), and the dough recipe makes three medium-sized pies - you can double this recipe and make six if you would like. Still, if you are going to make more than double the recipe, it is best to mix up multiple small batches. Keep the extra sauce and dough in the freezer, then when you are in a rush, you can defrost and let the children help roll out the dough, or invite friends over for a 'pick your own toppings' pizza party.

Until the 1970s, lard was often used instead of olive oil to make pizza dough (click to learn how to render your own lard).  It makes a noticeable difference in how the dough rises and bakes. I love the 70's, and I love pizza, so I offer these recipes in the tradition of making your own pizza.  Plan on making the sauce and dough a day ahead of time (another reason for making a bigger batch for the freezer). If you are serious about your pizza, invest in a pizza stone, it is great for reheating cold pizza, or paninis, or grinders, as well as making your fresh pies crisp and delicious. 

PIZZA DOUGH

INGREDIENTS

3 ½ cups unbleached All-Purpose Flour

1 tablespoon Yeast (1 packet Quick Rising Yeast)

1/2 cups Warm Water

3/4 cup Ice Cold Water

1 tablespoon Lard

1 teaspoon Salt

1 teaspoon Honey

Cornmeal for dusting

DIRECTIONS

Put yeast in a large cup with a half cup of warm water. Add 2 tablespoons of flour, 1 tablespoon Lard, and honey. Leave the mixture in the cup to rise for half an hour in a warm place. You'll know it is rising because it will bubble and expand.

Next, place the remaining 3 1/2 cups flour into your kitchen mixer with a dough hook, pour in the risen yeast "water," beating at low speed. Add 3/4 cup of ice-cold water to mix a little at a time. Mix on the lowest speed for 10 to 12 minutes. You should be able to form a soft dough ball.

If the dough is too wet and doesn't come off the bowl's sides, sprinkle in some more flour just until it clears the sides. If it is too dry, dribble in a teaspoon or two more of cold water. The finished dough needs to be elastic and slightly sticky. It may take a few tries to get this right, but don't give up!

Leave the dough in the mixing bowl, cover with a kitchen towel and let it rise for an hour and a half or until double in size, in a warm place. If it is in the cold winter months or in a rush, I'll put the oven setting to warm and set the mixing bowl in the oven.

Divide the “risen” dough into 3 equal parts, form into 3 balls. Coat each ball lightly with olive oil; place in a covered container or plastic freezer bag, and sit in the refrigerator overnight. Use within the next three days or place in the freezer for several weeks.

Remove the desired number of dough balls from the refrigerator (freezer) at least 2 hours before making the pizza. Once the dough has warmed through (come to room temperature), place the dough balls on top of a floured counter and sprinkle them lightly with flour; dust your hands with flour. Gently press the dough into flat disks about 1/2 inch thick and 5 inches in diameter. Sprinkle the dough lightly with flour, coat with olive oil, and cover the dough loosely with plastic wrap. Now let rest for another 2 hours. With well-floured hands,  begin to hand-toss or roll out with a rolling pin.

At least 45 minutes before making the pizza, place a baking stone on a rack in the lower third of the oven. Heat the oven as hot as possible, up to 800F (most home ovens will go only to 500 to 550F, but some will go higher). If you do not have a baking stone, you can use the back of a sheet pan, but do not preheat the pan.

Make the pizzas one at a time. Generously dust a peel - A peel is a shovel-like tool used by bakers to slide pizzas and other baked goods into and out of an oven - or use the back of a sheet pan with cornmeal. 

Coat your hands in flour and start with one piece of dough. Gently stretch the dough by softly pulling in a circular motion, carefully giving it a stretch. Work with small pulls. If it begins to stick to your hands, lay it on the floured counter, re-flour your hands, and then continue shaping it.  You can use a rolling pin or push/pull with your fingers on the countertop, though this isn't as effective (or as fun) as the traditional toss method.

When the dough is stretched out to your satisfaction (between 12 and 14 inches), lay it on the peel or pan, making sure there is just enough cornmeal to allow it to slide. Lightly top it with sauce and then with your other toppings; remember that the best pizzas are topped with a less-is-more philosophy, for taste as well as cooking. 

Slide the dressed pizza onto the stone (or bake directly on the sheet pan) and close the oven door. Wait 2 minutes, then take a peek. If it needs to be rotated for even baking, turn your stone (pan). The pizza should only take  8 to 10 minutes to bake, depending on the oven. 

If the top gets done before the bottom, you will need to move the stone to a lower shelf before the next round. If the bottom crisps before the cheese melts, you will need to raise the stone up a shelf for subsequent bakes. This recipe yields three 12 to 14-inch thin-crust pizzas.

HOMEMADE PIZZA SAUCE

(Enough for 4 to 8 Medium Pizzas)

INGREDIENTS

1 lb crushed Tomatoes

1 Tablespoon minced Garlic

4 oz. Tomato Paste

1 Tablespoon Basil

1 Tablespoon Olive Oil

2 Tablespoons Butter

1 Tablespoon minced Onion

1 teaspoon Marjoram

2 teaspoons dried Oregano

Pepper to taste

DIRECTIONS

Over medium-low heat, sauté the onion and garlic in the olive oil and butter for 4 to 5 minutes. The bits should be golden brown and fragrant but be careful not to overcook. Add the other ingredients.

Simmer the sauce for 15 to 20 minutes.

Jar up and store in the refrigerator.  I have found that this sauce tastes better after it rests for a few days.  You can also spoon into freezer bags and freeze for later use.  Freeze up to a year, refrigerate up to 2 months in a tightly sealed container - but I can pretty much guarantee it will not last more than a few weeks.

Spread thinly on your pizza crust, top with favorite toppings and cheese.  Bake according to the above instructions. 

Let your pizza rest for a few minutes when it comes out of the oven before slicing and serving.